Dendrobiums are among the most commonly encountered orchids. Dendrobiums are epiphytes (air plants). They have well-developed water-
storage system (pseudo bulbs) often called “canes” for their upright, leafy appearance. They should be placed in a free draining media.
Light: Sufficient light is important for healthy growth and flower production. Indirect sunlight to some moderate direct light. In a window, in a
Florida room, outside on the sunny side of a porch or under a tree with morning or some afternoon sun. Plants should be naturally erect and of
medium olive-green color.
Humidity: Dendrobiums do best in a 50 to 60% humidity. Humidity if inside the house, can be provided by placing water in a saucer of pebbles
and setting the pot on the pebbles. Make sure the pot is not just sitting in the water. This would rot the root system.
Water: Keep evenly moist while in active growth. When convenient, we mist our dendrobiums as if the were in a rain forest. A good morning mist
is nature’s best.
Allow plant to dry between watering.
Fertilize: It is best to fertilize after watering. Feed weekly, whatever the recommended dilution use half. Dendrobiums thrive on plant food. Your
plant will multiply and bloom for you more if you feed it well.
Temperature: Plants prefer a 15 to 20 degree difference between day and night. Ideal daytime is between 75 to 85 degrees – night is 60 to 65
degrees. Temperature of 95 to 100 can be tolerated if the air circulation is good. Low temperature (below 50F) may cause leaf drop.
Potting: Dendrobiums like to be root bound. They are happier if they appear to be growing out of the pot. In most cases no pot is too small. In a lot
of situations no pot seen - the plant is doing it’s best. We have not repotted our dendrobiums in years.
Ideal location – Water – Plant nutrients – potting media good creates Healthy, Happy Blooming Dendrobiums! Call us if you have any questions.
Light: Indirect or filtered sunlight is the best. Inside the house is ok if near a window, better if in a Florida room, outside porch or under some sort
of tree. Once placed in the ideal location –leave it. This plant does not adapt to change in location quickly.
situation would be to set the orchid pot on a tray or dish with clean pebbles, partially filled with water so that the pot never sets in water. This way
the roots will reach for the water but not soak in them.
Water: Plants should seldom dry out between watering. Potting media should feel slightly damp not wet.. Make sure the crown (where the leaves
come out) never holds water. Too much water will rot the roots – too little will dry out the roots. Healthy roots=healthy plant.
Fertilizer: Should be provided on a regular schedule. If not every watering – the least should be once a week. Follow proportions listed on the
fertilizer – a stronger dose on the plant is not good for the plant. When possible it is good to water the plant first. This way, when the fertilizer is
applied it is gentler on the plant.
If time does not permit this schedule - a good time release fertilizer can be used.
Potting: Should be done when the media breaks down and starts to hold too much moisture. If not every year – at least every year and half. Best
done in late spring after flowering. Best to use a pot the size of the plant – not too small and not too large.
Our media consist of bark, some sphagnum moss, perlite,charcoal and aliflor.
Temperature: Plants prefer a 15 to 20 degree difference between day and night. Ideal daytime temperature is between 75 and 85 degrees – night
is 60 to 65 degrees. If you have the Phal in a situation that is warmer than 90 degrees – make sure that there is air movement.
Ideal location - Water – Plant nutrients – potting media good = creates a Healthy, Happy blooming Phalaenopsis.l Call us if questions or
concerns - we are usually home!
Bromeliad Care
water. Get to know your new plant – feel the soil – if dry - water. This should be about once a week. A small amount of water in the cup of the
leaves and about a ½ cup at the base. Never use Metal watering cans, especially Copper. The metal is toxic to Bromeliads.
Blooms: Our plants are usually sold during their blooming period. The blooms usually last from 2 to 4 months. Most varieties have a very slow
metabolism and will take up to two years to produce the next bloom. Bromeliads do not rebloom, but they will reproduce a small -pup- plant at
their base, which is your next generation. This pup can be split off once it is a little more than 1/3 the size of
its’ Mom.
Fertilize: If you find it necessary to fertilize your plant (which will just produce new growth) use well balanced water based plant fertilizer at about
½ of the recommended application rate. We initially apply some time release to our new plants and if I’m fertilizing the garden - they get it too.
Nothing special.
Temperature: Bromeliads tolerate a wide range of temperature, with the ideal range of 55-85 degrees. Cooler nights actually enhance the color
and prolong the bloom life.
Repotting: Repotting usually is only necessary when separating the pup (new growth) from the mother plant. We find that Bromeliads do better
and reproduce faster when they are root-bound.
Soil: A porous soil or soil that can drain easily. The best mix is potting soil mixed with perlite, peat moss and some bark. Remember, the majority
of our bromeliads are planted in our yard – which is mostly top soil, oak leaves and sand.


Call us with any questions – Shop 813-818-8090 or Cell 727-643-7419
We are more than happy to Help!